Discussion in 'Oud Reviews' started by GalileoFigaroMagnifico, Apr 30, 2018.
Both sound wonderful! The second will make for a great gift.
Thanks for sharing.
Brief Impression of Amber Imperial (Mellifluence)
I first got a sample of it in May 2018. I enjoyed it's vanilla like amber and boozy smell, largely due to a natural rum succan absolute (from Hermitage) and Royal Anber (another base blend he was selling at the time, think of it like a very expensive shamama attar with lots of ambergris). So I ended up buying a bottle around June 2018. It has matured quite nicely over the last few months.
It begins with a bitter-sweet ambery smell – thanks to champaca, ambergris, pepper and probably something citrusy. This attar is highly diffusive, due to large amount of ambergris.
The amber accord is beautifully complimented by champaca’s distinct animalic sweetness, guiacwood’s smokiness (which also helps it being incensy). In the dry down it becomes more incensy and resinous and a bit woody with the help of guaiacwood, agarwoods from two regions, sandalwood and the remnants of rum succan. The animalics do not appear boldly at any time.
AI falls within the sweet vannila like sub-category within amber class of perfumes - but not cloyingly so. This attar should not be sniffed by bringing the nose closer the application area. Let it reach you (recall it’s high diffusiveness). Longevity (if you care for it) is about 8-9 hours before becoming a skin scent. Amber Imperial is definitely worth sampling.
- Siberian deer musk, champaca, green pepper
- Rum succan, civet, Yemeni & Malaysian ambergris, Chinese deer musk, guaiacwood 2006
- Cambodian and Vietnamese oud, Indian sandalwood, amber
I'm pretty new to Attars so I am unsure how to poetically review them for sure, but I want to share my appreciation for this line and the blending. It's unclear how these are so well hidden. I have been very impressed. I fell in love with two that are discontinued and will be looking to sample more.
Does anyone know what 168 is. My sample is smudged
59 Ar Ruqya
Tranquility in a bottle.
it opens with a gentle herbal note. medicinal costus & basil combo is dominant and woodsy, nutty note playing in the background.
authentic deer musk reveals itself in the dry down add powdery sweetness in the composition. very soothing and relaxing blend.
there is no surprise, kick. it just gently invite you to the pristine grass field.
it melts away all the worries and stresses. what a lovely blend
I think that Mellifluence has a new Pallida batch in the shop with higher quality ingredients.
As for Mellifluence in general - Tudor Rose and Hebi are two of my favorite perfumes.
I still have a sample of the first batch of Ar Ruqya, the combination of ingredients is magical even if it is lacking some depth.
Purple leather is a unique floral leather attar that I’ve never smelled before. the word ‘mellifluence’ is perfectly captured in this attar.
Opening of purple leather smells like propolis to my nose and it changes into the extremely smooth leather accord smells out of this world.
Seductive powdery, airy quality comes from iris makes this attar perfect for a night out fragrance. words cannot capture the beauty of this attar. I’m absolutely blown away.
Purple leather is an absolutely full bottle purchase worthy attar.
Opening of santal chocolate is not overtly chocolate-ish. it’s airy, musky, grassy. but less than 10 minutes, it turns into delicious creamy milk chocolate that drools my mouth. this milk chocolate accord smells so authentic, reminds me of smelling freshly made hot chocolate with a sprinkled marshmallow.
The blending of this oil is masterfully done, picking out individual ingredients is almost impossible to my nose. on top of rich milk chocolate accord, there’s airy quality to it.
in the middle to the last phase, the chocolate accord becomes bitter, nutty. smells like raw cacao without any sweetness. santal chocolate’s sweet, creamy opening phase lasted an average of about 2 hours and the bitter middle to end phase lasted an average of 4 hours.
overall, santal chocolate is an attar that captured rich high-quality milk chocolate perfectly. it wouldn’t be easy to tell the difference between this oil and real milk chocolate if I smell it side by side while closing eyes.
if you are a chocolate lover, Santal chocolate will give you the most authentic milk chocolate olfactory experience.
Janan opens with the juicy, citrusy rose and sweet orange. I get a costus with a pinewood too.
ambergris adds oceanic uplifting quality.
I get some kind of medicinal bitterness too. powdery sweet musk is there.
and I sense oud in the back. to me, this oud smells remotely similar to Sumatra oud or Thai oud.
Mellifluence Perfume's natural feeling DNA is still there, but this oil is not my taste.
I would much enjoy it if it had more oceanic ambergris and a heady aroma on top. maybe Boswellia sacra.
I feel like Abdullah was not competent enough to throw a high pitch with this oil. I don't see the direction he wanted to accomplish in this oil.
I don't hate it but underwhelming compared to previous oils. most likely I’m not going to use this.
I'll revisit this later to see how my opinion changes.
I hope the next batch of Janan to be better than this. I don’t mean to hurt Abdullah’s feelings but encourage him to be better.
Resol opens with spicy ginger & cinnamon combo. it’s mild and soothing like a traditional ginger tea.
smoothly mixed Thai oud and Vietnamese oud adds fruity floral sweetness.
When I was a little kid, my mother used to give me honey drizzled ginger tea.
Resol smells similar to that I’m fond of.
Resol is a very interesting attar. the mix of spices is lean toward India but at the same time, it has East Asia’s vibe with Western’s taste.
Radiant warmth from Resol thaws the stress and worries. it smells like a Christmas!
Due to ginger & cinnamon’s inherent hot property, Resol is suitable for winter or cold day.
it will warm up the stomach in such days.
I like a heavy dose of ginger but more ginger would make it imbalanced to most noses.
Projection is decent and it lasts an average of 5 hours.
Resol is an excellent choice for ginger tea lovers.
The opening of Litore reminds me of waves coming from the pristine ocean. scattering droplets from waves diffuse vibrant seaweed and nature’s rough smell intact.
seaweed topped with frankincense and orange smells incredibly fresh, it smells like freshly harvested seaweed. variety of vetiver adds a grainy texture and umami to the composition.
ambergris’s three-dimensional effect shines in this composition. it brings out the best from other ingredients and adds depth too. this powdery, oceanic ambergris becomes dominant in the dry down.
with all ingredients combined, it smells like an emerald salty breeze at the sunny shore.
Litore smells a bit dry to my nose. I wish it had a more ‘wet’ feeling. like a Yamadamatsu’s Hyofu incense stick.
Patchouli Tobacco is an attar dedicated gift for heavy, smokey fragrance lovers. all the ingredients in this concoction are there to sing choral for patchouli and tobacco.
seemingly blended ingredients boost the smokey, woodsy, mossy facet of patchouli at the background. it's hard to discern them. tobacco took a huge role in this concoction. so, it gained name on the title. tobacco enhances the pachouli's smokey facet with its own heavy, profound aroma.
however, it is not overwhelmingly smokey, woodsy. amber and high-quality Laos oud rounding out the composition perfectly with it’s floral, sweet note from the middle to end phase.
in the end phase, the main players(P&T) leave the stage and the remaining crews finish off the voyage with a soothing, warm hum.
Patchouli Tobacco is a wearable attar but it leans toward self-satisfaction due to its heavy smokiness during the opening phase.
Overall, Patchouli Tobacco is an attar for a seasoned classy gentleman and woman. projection of Patchouli Tobacco is fairly decent and it lasts easily more than 6 hours.
Tobacco in this oil is a bit intimidating to my nose, but tobacco lovers will fall in love with its authentic representation.
it is hard to find a light fragrance that satisfies my nose. to my nose, most of the light fragrances in the market smell harsh or awful. 'ok' at most.
previously reviewed Janan from Mellifluence Perfume falls into 'pretty good.' to my nose.
I found all the things that I wanted from Janan in Aurum.
Aurum is one of the very rare light fragrances that arouses my nose.
no, it is The best smelling light fragrance I've ever experienced.
This one will be a very biased and emotional review. but I won't hesitate to express it.
Aurum opens up with a mind-penetrating brightness. it comes from perfectly blended frankincense, white cognac, Taif rose, priprioca. and many more I can't discern.
it is hard to pick the right word to describe it so I'll put some words that come to my mind.
Invigorating, Ethereal, Popping, Scattering sunlight, divine, delicate.
It is citrusy but has a more refined, balanced, transparent quality compared to most of the citrus in the market. there is a resinous vibe that acts as a base for top note.
and there is an obvious olive note too. it adds more dynamic color and fresh, oily feeling. it is a very fascinating use of olive that I've never imagined. and it works perfectly.
The opening is great but the middle phase is where the magic starts. without noticing, The most beautiful smelling Mozambique ambergris smoothly reveals its presence.
this ambergris is The best smelling ambergris I've ever smelt in my life. it smells like baby skin-ish powdery, spacious.
on top of that, moderately used Thai oud and Malaysian sandalwood add floral, soft, vanillic sweetness.
they support the ambergris in the background. I get a feeling that they will be smell dang good on their own.
I sense @tyson 's Priprioca, Taif Rose and Nangarhar Rose blend do lots of work in this blend.
it makes me want to try some of his creation too.
Aurum reminded me that some light fragrance can be this good.
it re-ignited my hope for light fragrances. I appreciate Abdullah for making this attar. hats off to him.
p.s. I can't praise enough for Mozambique ambergris in Aurum. wow.
Shamama, an attar made with various floral, herbal ingredients. this complex spicy blend is commonly used in oriental compositions.
Every perfume houses, distilleries have their own recipe for making Shamama. but saffron, spikenard, cinnamon, cardamom, labdanum, amber, vetiver are typically used in traditional Shamama attar.
Rayn shares the same vein with Shamama. so it is not actually unique and out of the blue.
The amber accord from Rayn gives off the velvety smooth vanillic sweetness. this radiant warmth feels very cozy, relaxing.
khus(vetiver) was expected but Mellience Perfume added twist on Shamama with iris, ambergris that makes an extra cold, powdery layer.
so it is more like a Shamama Tul Amber than regular Shamama.
I had a fun time while wearing this incredibly complex blend.
Ryan is very hard to discern ingredients without prior knowledge.
I still can't figure out the complexity of this blend.
Abdullah must be had a very hard time making this blend.
I get a feeling that he poured lots of thought into this blend.
Rose, saffron, lotus... the garden is full of red flowers. only red exists in this garden. even the mist dyed with red color and it feels like a dream.
the red mist is like a deadly poison, it has irresistible temptation. suddenly, it transformed into an indescribable being.
it hugs me and I can't resist it as if I drunk as a hallucination. its soft powdery skin scent stops my thinking.
she suddenly disappears without telling me. there is only a little trace remains she left. the red woman left me nothing but longing to be satisfied.
who was she...? was it a dream...?
Fyrian opens up with a smokey, boozy chili that wrapped with a dry, leafy heavy tobacco note.
the opening is very peppery spicy and I feel like my nose is on fire.
As it progresses, it becomes sweeter by the chocolate note and labdanum adds warmth and resinous quality on top of that.
the composition is interesting and complex it reveals enumerable nuances till the end.
I'm not a fan of tobacco notes in general. And opening is too intense to my nose. honestly, Fyrian is the least appealing attar from Mellifluence Perfume to my nose.
I'm sorry Abdullah. not much inspiration to write about this one.
I raised my brow when I first smelled Viere because of its mysterious alien smell.
Viere opens up with a distinctive rooty, earthy turmeric and warm, resinous labdanum. a touch of tomato leaf note adds green, fresh feeling but it is muted by dark woods. it is very hard to describe the scent.
due to its dark, woody, rooty, earthy smell, the opening smells like medicine. or... can be said rich soil. (not dry)
It goes deeper in the dry down with the combination of vetiver, iris, oud. they add dark, powdery quality, makes me feel like buried underground. I know it sounds weird this way but it's very grounding and calming.
though there are sweet notes like vanilla, Bushmans candle, I don't get much sweetness in Viere.
unlike the dusty opening, middle phase, it smells incredibly smooth and pleasant in the end phase.
Overall, Viere is a very interesting, experimental attar. it is unique and fun to crack its mystery but I find it quite hard to wear in public due to its alien scent.
Listening: Jon Gomm - Dance Of The Last Rhino
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