Ashfaque

Jonoon al Oud
Tuberose Dream
32721986_444083832718724_1558326259405029376_n.jpg

The star of this attar, as the name suggests, is tuberose - my other half's favourite flower. So I thought why not make a tuberose centric 100% natural attar as a gift to my wife, suitable for both! I wanted to highlight it’s sweet, somewhat buttery, velvety and evocative smell. So to highlight and complement its various odours facets, I added bergamot, elemi, blood orange that together welcomes the wearer to a muted citrusy opening.

It then opens a little bit more with a refreshing smell with a help from orange blossom. At this stage tuberose is assisted by a floral bouquet of ylang ylang, Egyptian common jasmine, jasmine sambac, roses from Iran, Turkey and Morocco. I also wanted to add some resins to augment 'some' incensy vibe to it – more specifically to highlight the lactonic, sweet and somewhat ambery/resinous facets of tuberose. So in goes wild massoia bark, tonka bean, elemi, frankincense, myrrh, sweet myrrh, styrax, and my favourites labdanum and benzoin.

To make the whole concoction a bit ‘moody’ and long lasting, I added 3 ouds (a Cambodian, a Sylheti and Manek II from AgarwoodAssam) Haitian vetiver, castoreum and white/grey ambergris at the base, none of which springs out loud as it would ruin the tuberose. In small quantity they seem to do the trick pretty well. Lastly, all these beautiful oils are on a beautiful base of two Santalum album - from Bangladesh (organic) and Southern India.

I now want to add civet, saffron (my favourite) and a few more things but not sure if I should. My wife told me not to add civet. Don’t tell her, but I want to (, provided I don’t screw up)! Your suggestion is always welcome.

Regardless of adding more or not, I’ll now have to let this attar mature for at least 2-3 weeks to see how it changes – a difficult exercise for me! :Unsure:

Notes
Top: Bergamot, blood orange, elemi, Tunisian neroli
Middle: Ylang ylang abs, Ruh of Jasminum sambac, Egyptian jasmine abs, Persian rose otto, Turkish & Morrocan rose abs, frankincense
Base: Sandalwood (Bangladesh and India), massoia bark, white/grey ambergris, castoreum, Manek II (AgarwoodAssam), Cambodian and Sylheti oud, Haitian vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean, labdanum, myrrh, elemi, benzoin, styrax, tobacco abs and civet.

Notelist updated on June 9
 
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Al Shareef Oudh

Master Perfumer
Tuberose Dream
32721986_444083832718724_1558326259405029376_n.jpg

The star of this attar, as the name suggests, is tuberose - my other half's favourite flower. So I thought why not make a tuberose centric 100% natural attar as a gift to my wife, suitable for both! I wanted to highlight it’s sweet, somewhat buttery, velvety and evocative smell. So to highlight and complement its various odours facets, I added bergamot, elemi, blood orange that together welcomes the wearer to a muted citrusy opening.

It then opens a little bit more with a refreshing smell with a help from orange blossom. At this stage tuberose is assisted by a floral bouquet of ylang ylang, Egyptian common jasmine, jasmine sambac, roses from Iran, Turkey and Morocco. I also wanted to add some resins to augment 'some' incensy vibe to it – more specifically to highlight the lactonic, sweet and somewhat ambery/resinous facets of tuberose. So in goes wild massoia bark, tonka bean, elemi, frankincense, myrrh, sweet myrrh, styrax, and my favourites labdanum and benzoin.

To make the whole concoction a bit ‘moody’ and long lasting, I added 3 ouds (a Cambodian, a Sylheti and Manek II from AgarwoodAssam) Haitian vetiver, castoreum and white/grey ambergris at the base, none of which springs out loud as it would ruin the tuberose. In small quantity they seem to do the trick pretty well. Lastly, all these beautiful oils are on a beautiful base of two Santalum album - from Bangladesh (organic) and Southern India.

I now want to add civet, saffron (my favourite) and a few more things but not sure if I should. My wife told me not to add civet. Don’t tell her, but I want to (, provided I don’t screw up)! Your suggestion is always welcome.

Regardless of adding more or not, I’ll now have to let this attar mature for at least 2-3 weeks to see how it changes – a difficult exercise for me! :Unsure:

Notes
Top: Bergamot, blood orange, neroli
Middle: Ylang ylang abs, Ruh of Jasmine sambac, egyptian jasmine abs, Persian rose otto, Turkish rose & Morrocan rose abs., frankincense, labdanum, myrrh, elemi, benzoin, Syrax, tobacco abs.
Base: Sandalwood (Bangladesh and India), massoia bark, white/grey ambergris, castoreum, Manek II (AgarwoodAssam), Cambodian and Bangladeshi oud, Haitian vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean.
Dear @Ashfaque reading every letter from top down what excitement! Halfway the thought that this blend needs civet, then reading your words that you want to add civet, go for it brother. Without civet it will be like single notes no harmony no union, no marriage, just individuals bouncing around. Civet will bring it together and also help extend some of those lovely top notes more smoothly into the middle notes.

If you share with us what is the total volume you are working with, then we can recommend how much civet.

Where is your civet from? Is it paste or oil?

One of the greatest fulfillments in perfumery is to craft a gift for ones loved ones. Barik Allah Feek
 

Ashfaque

Jonoon al Oud
Dear @Ashfaque reading every letter from top down what excitement! Halfway the thought that this blend needs civet, then reading your words that you want to add civet, go for it brother. Without civet it will be like single notes no harmony no union, no marriage, just individuals bouncing around. Civet will bring it together and also help extend some of those lovely top notes more smoothly into the middle notes.

If you share with us what is the total volume you are working with, then we can recommend how much civet.

Where is your civet from? Is it paste or oil?

One of the greatest fulfillments in perfumery is to craft a gift for ones loved ones. Barik Allah Feek

JzakaAllah kahyr for your kind words and advice, brother.

It will be civet absolute (India) from Hermitage Oils. It is a solid waxy mass (at room temperature), golden brown in colour which quickly becomes pourable with gentle warmth. Here is a funny picture of the item I have.

The total weight is ~1.463 grams. My plan was to use a trace amount - the tiny amount one would get on a pinhead (once the civet absolute is warmed up for pourable viscosity). However, since my total amount is so small, I'm not sure how to pursue. So I really appreciate your advice. :)
 
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Ashfaque

Jonoon al Oud
@Ashfaque
Oh my!!
I cannot begin to imagine such a complex mix.
We really need smell-a-vision, that way all the ouddicts can share the experience of each member’s creation:D

A special perfume, for someone special....:thumbsup::thumbsup:
So true. Every time I read about the description of oils from AgarwoodAssam, EO, AA, ASO, FO, SPA, MellifAttar, AbdesSalam Attars, RPP and few more, I have this exact feeling! :)
 
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Al Shareef Oudh

Master Perfumer
JzakaAllah kahyr for your kind words and advice, brother.

It will be civet absolute (India) from Hermitage Oils. It is a solid waxy mass (at room temperature), golden brown in colour which quickly becomes pourable with gentle warmth. Here is a funny picture of the item I have.

The total weight is ~1.463 grams. My plan was to use a trace amount - the tiny amount one would get on a pinhead (once the civet absolute is warmed up for pourable viscosity). However, since my total amount is so small, I'm not sure how to pursue. So I really appreciate your advice. :)

You have mentioned regarding the notes
Notes
Top: Bergamot, blood orange, neroli
Middle: Ylang ylang abs, Ruh of Jasmine sambac, egyptian jasmine abs, Persian rose otto, Turkish rose & Morrocan rose abs., frankincense, labdanum, myrrh, elemi, benzoin, Syrax, tobacco abs.
Base: Sandalwood (Bangladesh and India), massoia bark, white/grey ambergris, castoreum, Manek II (AgarwoodAssam), Cambodian and Bangladeshi oud, Haitian vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean.

Please do expect that your otto, ruh etc oils will play top note, your resins depending on extraction/distillation method can do a bit of top but will most likely settle at middle. Just something to keep in mind.

As for the civet then using a 1ml pipette add 3 standard drops into the mixture ensuring that your receiving mixture is at least body temperature to allow the civet to mix and not remain apart. mix well and enjoy.
 

Ashfaque

Jonoon al Oud
Update: Civet added. I just dunked a paperclip to civet and then put it in the attar.

The smell has changed quite beautifully - all the top and middle notes now shinning even more (as Al Shareef Oudh suggested), followed by the main act, Tuberose, revealing it's creamy beauty slower than before. How civet lifts up all the other notes in a mukhllat is a complete revelation to me. In short, an amazing transformation.

I'm grateful to Sultan Pasha, Abdullah (of Mellifluence Attars) and Al Shareef Oudh for their help in answering my questions even though they don't really have to. May Allah Swt reward you all many folds.

Ashfaque
 
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