Discussion in 'Oud Reviews' started by Taesik Yun, Jul 25, 2020.
Let’s not forget all that ambergris in the drydown either. It’s so warm and cozy!
Spicy, fresh, sweet, resinous, oriental, amber
I get a lot of saffron, rose, frankincense from the opening. ambergris makes this composition shine.
oud and sandalwood come out in the dry down.
This one smells very... Muslim-ish. somewhat reminds me of AKAF's Istanbul.
smell and blending are good but synthetics in this one is a bit too much for me.
but those synthetics make this one projects a LOT.
I just got mine yesterday. Exquisite rose. Musk and all the different roses used in here imparts it a 3D effect. I am in awe. I think it should be named as Symphonie de Roses Exquises.
I upped the sprays and the scent cloud it creates is really quite something.I'm in the mid-late drydown and the saffron note has become really prominent for the last few hours.Very enjoyable mashaAllah!
I felt the same way brother. The synthetic/white musk is a bit much but it performs excellent. I would say that Fumee Royale is a slightly more naturalized version although sweeter and honeyed.
I love to layer Fumee Royale with pure musk. It is beautiful in itself but I like the extra kick.
Love this review and completely agree. This one is really special. Iris Chypre is just a stunner.
I haven't seen anyone on here review Ghaliyat Tareeq al Hareer. I bought that one expecting it to be the pinnacle but I much prefer Iris Chypre. Do any of you have experience with Tareeq? I keep trying to warm to it but it seems muddier than I'd expect for $250/gram... the drytdown is lovely when the musk/ambergris/saffron is blooming but the top feels like a bit of a soup. I get a similar effect in the first few minutes of Cohiban Coffee Oud Extreme. But I love many other things from Elixir: Fougere Kosmos del Amilia, Fumee Royale, Kalevala, Spirit of Japan.
Am I missing the big picture with Tareeq? Do others catch any of the florals?
I don’t think you’re off base at all. After spending more time with it I feel the same. I think when Ahmed is on point he’s REALLY on point. I like Cohiban coffee more than CCOE because the extreme version gets totally lost in note soup where as Cohiban maintains a clarity. I think that’s the difficulty with Ghaliyat Tareeq Hareer. There’s an opening chemical smell that reminds me of petrol/fumes of some sort and then a muddy mid section that doesn’t really clear up until the drydown. I think he’s done way better compositions and while the ingredients are probably awesome I just feel he’s done better work. Spirit of Japan (Japan musk version) is still one of my favorites from him because of the simplicity and clarity.
actually, the name you picked is better, will consult with you next time!!!- (really!!)
GUYS PLEASE CONTINUE YOUR DISCUSSION AT EASE, just saying hello as i just came across this- GREETINGS TO YOU ALL))
Assalamu Alaikum Akh Ahmed. it's a pleasure to see the man himself amongst us. I want to just say thank you for these amazing fragrances.
wa Alaykum Al Salam Brother, Enjoy
You are all most Welcome))
A wonderful line Taesik Yun...... While reading your review (I agree with Castingshadows) I was getting a feeling by the construct of your words strung across the screen here, what I thought you were getting at......but as soon as I arrived at the bakery quote...I knew where you were coming from...
Wonderful review sir!!
My first impression of Ghaliyat Tareeq Al Hareer
Please keep in mind that this is unedited, unorganized rambling.
I'll just write down whatever that comes in my mind.
I get to sense the smell from 5cm ~ 10cm away.
Very volatile, full of terpenes. It reminds me of petrol, gasoline. not unpleasant though.
Animalic oceanic black ambergris, I don't get the grasp of what's going on. I get a cooling sensation on my eyes like when smelling camphor.
I can sense a hint of saffron. starting to smell very medicinal. disinfectant? Hydrogen peroxide?
Starting to get citrus flowers. Neroli. Keep tilting my head to make sense of it.
Musk, a lot of musks. still smells medicinal. starting to get ouds. feels very... 'heady'.
Taif rose. the scent is not impressive(not yet) but I feel uplifted.
I still quite don't understand this oil. starting to get a resinous sweet smell.
I get a sweetness that reminiscent of a gently heated oud chip. can't tell the region though.
Only ambergris and a hint of musk left.
This is not love in first smell oil. quite different than I expected. what I expected was a typical rose, ambergris, musk combination, and a little bit of twist. too many things going on and I don't understand the aim. it feels... 'random' to say least.
the opening is too piercing to my nose. the middle is... 'chaotic' I quite enjoyed the scent after 1h but I prefer to wear neat oud oil.
I think there's a chance that my brain couldn't handle the complexity of this oil. I'd like to see how my interpretation changes over time. for now, I'm a bit underwhelmed.
I mostly agree with what @Castingshadows said.
Wow, this was so so so close to my experience. I try a little each week, just to see if it’ll click.
Elixir Attar - Spirit of Japan
Elixir Attar described this oil as a representation of the Japanese Kodo tradition and incense burning ceremonies.
I can't describe this oil better than Elixir Attar did. Spirit of Japan is blended in such a surgically precise, concise manner. it perfectly delivers what it's trying to without any flaws.
The first thing that hits my nose when I apply this oil is its utterly realistic representation of the smell of traditional Japanese incense. ingredients that are typically used in Japanese incense are incredibly diverse(more than 12, to speak) hard to balance. and yet, Elixir Attar did it.
But, I would not be impressed if that was it because there are lots of Japanese incense inspired fragrances out there. what I find very impressive is, that Elixir Attar did not overused sandalwood or oud here to makes this smells like premium incense. Elixir Attar did deliver the 'theme' of Japanese incense, not agarwood or sandalwood dominated premium incense.
On top of that, they added florals like gardenia and heliotrope to make an image of the surrounding environment. if they didn't add this floral notes, Spirit of Japan would be a boring, generic one-dimensional incense smelling fragrance.
I really appreciate the thoughts and focus that went into making this blend and using this level of high-quality ingredients.
Spirit of Japan is a must-try to those who love incense. I tried to moderately express my love for this oil.
Had a very good weekend with these beauties.
I wore Iris Chypre, three days in a row. I found it that good.
I agree with everything respected @Taesik Yun mentioned above. The iris here is admirable. In my honest opinion, this fragrance is an underdog. I guess a lot of people on here would agree with me
An amusing thing about Iris Chypre is that it shells quite different on paper and skin.
I felt that it did not open quite well on paper. On paper, it smells same as Roja Diaghilev. Some might think I am crazy for saying this, but please note that both are Chypres and both share ~80% of the notes in Top and base notes and 100% of the heart notes. I have owned Diaghilev for 3 years now and it has been my favorite. That's why I was struck with the similarity at the first sniff. I was so disappointed.
But then I decided to spray it on skin. So, glad I did. Started off similar to Diaghilev but the dry down for Iris Chypre sent me to another dimension. The iris is paramount in here. I really love the powdery sweetness that Vanilla, Benzoin and Orris spawn together. It is layered and complex. on skin, it develops step by step, little by little.
And for Diaghilev analogy, dare I say, its less sharp, less jagged and well rounded than Diaghilev. Moreover, it is 100 percent natural. I do not think Roja does natural fragrances. It is a better version of Diaghilev ? It's a bold statement, I know. I don't know, I am no perfume expert. I am just scribbling down what I felt like.
I wore it for three days, straight, back to back. Was not feeling like going out on Saturday. The idea of wearing Iris Chypre, persuaded my lazy self to go out. Went to walk by the water near home, wearing three sprays of this gracious goodness. It was an experience to remember. I just had a feeling that I am better than others walking by. Well, I do not know about that but my perfume is definitely better than theirs.
PS: I am in love with this perfume. It reminded of a love affair. What else is left to say?
Thanks for sharing your experience, @Himanshu Sharma
I've smelt Diaghilev too. I have no hesitation saying Iris Chypres is better in terms of quality, price, and in almost every aspects except a bottle design.
Well said mate. As my brother Taesik said above, This Iris from Ahmed is head and shoulder above most other Iris you can find in the market. As far as Diaghilev goes, I won't even compare Natural goodness with a composition made somewhere in a lab probably. I don't have the spray form because I prefer attars over sprays. and I can safely say Iris Chypre is one of the best that I have in my collection.
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