RisingPhoenix

Resident Artisan
Can anyone explain the relationship between santalol content and scent? is it simply the higher santalol content the better the scent?

Most folks think "Total Santalol Content" refers just to the Alpha and Beta Santalol content, which is incorrect.

There are multiple Santal Alcohols that are present and added to reach the Total Santalol Content.

The Alpha and Beta Santalols are generally the marker for commercial quality. They have more to do with the creamy / milky texture of Sandalwood. Indian (and certain Indonesian) Sandalwoods tend to have the highest Alpha and Beta Santalol contents - hence why they are more creamy. Australian spicatum tends to have the lowest - hence why it's generally not so creamy.

It's the other Santal Alcohols that give specific oils and regions their particular characters. It's these other Alcohols that make an oil interesting.
 

RisingPhoenix

Resident Artisan
Oh right thanks, so basically you could have a sandalwood with less santalol then another but have a much more superior scent?

Eh - I'm not sure "superior" is the right word.

I still think Alpha and Beta Santalol are the primary markers for the scent that most folks appreciate. But it's the other Santal Alcohols that make the oil more interesting.

A Sandal oil of 90% Santalol will be a good oil - but a higher % will generally get more interesting.
 

RisingPhoenix

Resident Artisan
New Ceylon Sandal on the horizon...sitting alongside our newly released Kupang and Flores oils


A deeply rich, almost Oud-like intensity from this copper distilled jewel. A complex ride, to say the least!


Pictured here in antique French hand-blown ground glass

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#lalique

#ceylon

#srilanka

#sandalwood

#sandalwoodoil

#sandalwoodbeads

#oudoil

#oud

#oudwood

#japaneseincense

#japan

#perfume

#perfumecollection

#perfumery

#risingphoenixperfume

#risingphoenixperfumery

#artandolfaction
 

Ashfaque

Jonoon al Oud
Just a technical query: When we read, say one oil has 89% santalol, does it include z-alpha santalol, santalol isomer, etc.? If so what are the compounds included in that santalol percentage?
 

RisingPhoenix

Resident Artisan
Just a technical query: When we read, say one oil has 89% santalol, does it include z-alpha santalol, santalol isomer, etc.? If so what are the compounds included in that santalol percentage?

For reference, let's look at a batch of the stuff being sold as "Indian Sandalwood" or "Mysore" - but really it's the plantation album from Australia. This is why we all have to be really careful when buying things online… Lots of companies are now buying this material from Australia but are selling it as genuine Indian sandalwood. Sometimes you'll see on a label listed as Indian or Mysore, but the fine print says "product of Australia". Sometimes they don't even bother listing the countrybof origin on the bottle. Can be difficult to navigate the half truths.

Take a look at the molecules that end in Santalol below. The total of these Santal Alcohols adds up only to 77.48% of the oil. By the classical standards of Grade A Indian sourced (which would be 90% minimum) - this is a C or D Grade oil with less than 80% Total Santalols.

Even if you add up the Santalenes and the Curcumen (as some do) - the total comes only to 79.21%

If you add in the Nuciferol (as some do) only then does the "Total Santalol" hop over 80% to 80.81%. But that's how some companies fudge the "Total" total.

At best - this Australian Album is a B or C Grade oil by conventional standards. By their new standards, if they add up everything the way that we just did here and get over 80%, they may call that an A Grade oil. The way that they nomenclate these things can be misleading, as A Grade standards vary from species to species and country and region.

This oil, btw - smells like Buttery popcorn - emphasis on the popcorn and not the butter.

To a newbie, this will likely smell like a good oil. To someone like you and me who knows what the old stuff smells like… This will smell like popcorn and you might not be happy with it.

Hope that helps to clarify ;)

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Ashfaque

Jonoon al Oud
For reference, let's look at a batch of the stuff being sold as "Indian Sandalwood" or "Mysore" - but really it's the plantation album from Australia. This is why we all have to be really careful when buying things online… Lots of companies are now buying this material from Australia but are selling it as genuine Indian sandalwood. Sometimes you'll see on a label listed as Indian or Mysore, but the fine print says "product of Australia". Sometimes they don't even bother listing the countrybof origin on the bottle. Can be difficult to navigate the half truths.

Take a look at the molecules that end in Santalol below. The total of these Santal Alcohols adds up only to 77.48% of the oil. By the classical standards of Grade A Indian sourced (which would be 90% minimum) - this is a C or D Grade oil with less than 80% Total Santalols.

Even if you add up the Santalenes and the Curcumen (as some do) - the total comes only to 79.21%

If you add in the Nuciferol (as some do) only then does the "Total Santalol" hop over 80% to 80.81%. But that's how some companies fudge the "Total" total.

At best - this Australian Album is a B or C Grade oil by conventional standards. By their new standards, if they add up everything the way that we just did here and get over 80%, they may call that an A Grade oil. The way that they nomenclate these things can be misleading, as A Grade standards vary from species to species and country and region.

This oil, btw - smells like Buttery popcorn - emphasis on the popcorn and not the butter.

To a newbie, this will likely smell like a good oil. To someone like you and me who knows what the old stuff smells like… This will smell like popcorn and you might not be happy with it.

Hope that helps to clarify ;)

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Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, Joseph. :thumbsup::)
 

RisingPhoenix

Resident Artisan
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation, Joseph. :thumbsup::)

My pleasure. There's often quite a bit of confusion on the topic. You'll never see Total A & B Santalol's total 90%. It's always a calculation of the Total Santalol's...and even then, sometimes it the other chemical markers that are also added in. In general though - should be the Santalol's that are calculated. The other significant molecules are just gravy ;)
 

Woodland Note

True Ouddict
I hate popcorn smell. :confused:


I just reminded myself that I bought "sandalwood" essential oil around 12 years ago.
This one:
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I still have it. I think one could say it smells like a 2 days worn socks + some hint of patchouli. That’s first thought that came to my mind. Then I sniffed more, I’m smelling hmm... some acidic bitter herbal musty scent like a green citrus peels + something balsamic + something woody, earthy. Maybe it’s not as terrible as its first impression on me. But still... disappointing. Now I know this is not true sandalwood. Well, I was much bigger noob back then to the scent knowledge...
 

Ashfaque

Jonoon al Oud
I can recognize synthetics in Sandalwood oil by placing a couple drops in an open container or plate, then letting it dry and oxidize for a few weeks. That's when the truth comes out;)

As for viscosity, I don't think that it is the primary indicator of a good oil/ authentic Mysore oil.
Can you please explain a little bit - i.e., the distinguishing factors after oxidation, and what else to look for.

Update: I think I found the answers from these two posts:

Since I tried very many sandalwood oils, I came across some that weren't pure. Hmmmmmm, now what are the chances of that happening, especially to a newbie:Roflmao::Roflmao::Roflmao:

I noticed that after some time, when I sniff the caps, and the seepage around the screw threads, I start to smell the synthetics. The pure oils never smell that way.

So by placing a couple drops on a plate, then spread it a bit, it will accelerate the oxidation. From that point pure oils will have the proper oxidation note, but the synthetics will still be strong with the fake sandalwood aroma.

Update on the Ali Bros. oil:

"Testing for Synthetics " result:

The drop of oil that I set aside to oxidize, has been exposed to oxygen for over two weeks now. I applied it on my skin, and sniffed away:nose:
I detect no synthetics.
Even after some cross-referencing with my other oils, still, it passes the test:Thumbsup:

Thank you very much @Oudamberlove.:):Thumbsup:
 
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F4R1d0uX

Resident Artisan
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When you swipe a sandalwoody ambergris instead of an ambery sandalwood.

The sandalwood by itself would make you think you just swiped a sandal/frankincense co-distillation and maybe the most unique sandal I ever smelt.

Anyway, as beautiful as it is, its role stands to carry the most decadent animalicious east Somalian brown ambergris.

Classy, solid, sexy and coming soon ...
 

mlb78

Oud Beginner
View attachment 7643

When you swipe a sandalwoody ambergris instead of an ambery sandalwood.

The sandalwood by itself would make you think you just swiped a sandal/frankincense co-distillation and maybe the most unique sandal I ever smelt.

Anyway, as beautiful as it is, its role stands to carry the most decadent animalicious east Somalian brown ambergris.

Classy, solid, sexy and coming soon ...

This is very exciting!!!
 
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